| Welcome to Varanasi | Morning on the Ganges |
| The Gatts | Evening on the Ganges |
| Sarnath | Cheerio! |
Welcome to Varanasi
Varanasi is the spitiual home of Hinduism. The city stands on the banks of the Ganges in a unique setting where the river flows south to north. Because the river flows back towards it's source the belief is that if a Hindu dies in Varanasi then that person goes directly to heaven and is released from the cycle of rebirth.
Of course, many old people come to Varanasi and die there, finally being cremated on one of the many pyres along the river bank. The main reason why new arrivals die rapidly in Varanasi is tbe belief that the Ganges is holy and therefore drinkable, but also the fact that it is immensely poluted. Unless you have had a lifetime of building up a natural resistance to the river's many micro-organisms then showing up and starting to drink the stuff in unlikely to promote a prolonged existence in this world.
Because of Varanasi's religious attractions it has become a favourite centre for pilgrims, holy men (sadhus) and hippies from all over the world. As a natural result, the streets that lead to the main gatts are permanently choked with traffic, a fact that makes it very impossible to move at any pace around around the city.
The godess of the Ganges is Ganga, and like all Hindu dieties, she requires waking up, feeding and putting to bed. So every morning the morning Puja (worship) is conducted for Ganga and she is given a full breakfast of bells and Ghee (clarified butter) fire.
People washing in the Ganges at this location is a tradition that extends from pre-history.
The main gatt (steps) is where the temple of the eternal flame is situated. Inside is a fire from which all of the funeral pyres must take a spill and be light from. Of course, the man who owns the eternal flame is the richest man in Varanasi. On the other hand, the consequences of allowing it to go would are dire..
This rather new temple has subsided into the river. No one seems too concerned though and the Sadhu (meditating, in the centre), continues with his worship regardless.
Evening on the Ganges is the best time to take part in the candle ceremony, where tourist light primitive wicks stuck in waxy compounds all sitting on a small paper 'boat'. Out on the river, you release the little boat and all your worldly desires and cares with it. A simple ceremony, but quite pleasant.
It is forbidden to take pictures from within 1km of the funeral pyres. The governing Brahmin priests have been known to refuse people the chance to row passed the pyres at all if this restriction is not observed (and quite right too). Seeing the cremations close up with all the associated ceremony is a unique experience. It is not for everyone's taste but it is something I will never forget. I knew I was very privelaged to even be allowed to observe perhaps the most important rite in the Hinduism.
Supper time for Ganga and again the Brahmin priests serve up bells and ghee in large portions. From the river it is not only a tremendous sight but also sound.
Close to Varanasi, is Sarnath. This place is the an important religious site for Buddhists because it was here that Siddartha Gatama, finally attained enlightenment and became Buddha whilst sitting under a fig tree.
Today there is a nice temple that stands to one side of the deer park where Buddha delivered his first sermon 2600 years ago. The exact location of enlightenment is marked by a huge brick stupa, the site of veneration for Buddhist pilgrims.
Well that completes another holiday web site and I would just like to say that if anyone from the tour ever wants to drop by at our place then they're very welcome.
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